Here are highlights from my recent tasting tour of the Ancient Lakes.

Crayelle Cellars 2009 Dry Riesling; $15
The winery motto is "Balance • Character • Longevity" and this shows every indication of having all three. Tart and racy in an Australian style, with lemon/lime fruit wrapped in dry minerals. Juicy and fragrant.

Jones of Washington 2010 Sauvignon Blanc; $15
Honeysuckle scents and ripe, fresh fruit flavors run from grapefruit on into tropical. This was fermented in Hungarian puncheons, picking up just a hint of toast along the way. Clean and quite delicious.

Cave B 2009 Viognier; $20
Estate-grown and 100% varietal. I have rarely had a Viognier this delicious with a meal. Orange blossoms and tangerine highlights accompanied a spectacular beet/goat cheese salad from chef Bear Ullman at Cave B's Tendrils restaurant. A yum-a-thon all the way.

Saint Laurent 2008 Lucky White; $12
This pleasant blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling has the flesh, the fruit and the bracing acidity to be a fine summer sipper. Peaches and herb (say, weren't they a singing duo?) dominate, with a fresh, fleshy finish.

Ryan Patrick 2008 Reserve Chardonnay; $18
The fruit shines here, with flavors running from apples to bananas, and a pleasant wash of toast running into the finish. Broad, accessible, and well-priced.

White Heron 2008 Dry Rosé; $10
The color of this Syrah-based rosé is a bright copper. it is bone dry, with a slightly sour aftertaste. If you enjoy French rosés with a little bottle age, this is the wine for you.